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Ibanez Model 627-12 1 Reply

Started by Dave Fengler. Last reply by Robert Alan Kershaw Oct 13.

Wilson T-162 12- String 3 Replies

Started by jack stepick. Last reply by FloridaGull Sep 25.

Goya TS-4 12 String 13 Replies

Started by jack stepick. Last reply by jack stepick Sep 16.

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Comment by Rick Heenan on October 18, 2009 at 10:18am
A little trick for isolating buzzes and noises that I used working in an anechoic chamber (sound room). I used a two foot length of clear plastic tubing. I would put one end near my ear and use the other to search for the noise. Worked great, I eventually used a single headphone muff with a hole drilled into it and the tubing inserted, much more comfortable and looked more professional too.
Comment by Antonio Cotichini on October 18, 2009 at 5:45am
Do anyone of you have, or have played, the actual top-of-the-line Yamaha 12 string LL16?
I read all I found about it. It intrigues me for it's prize/quality ratio. Thoughts?
Comment by Steve Kline on September 16, 2009 at 11:57pm
Good luck, Edward, you have a lot of suggestions to go through.
Comment by Edward Sparks on September 15, 2009 at 2:49pm
Thanks Gentle,man for all of the advice...I think I'll try it all! I should repeat thought that this is a pre-90's Martin...there is no adjustable truss rod...Edward

Comment by Antonio Cotichini on September 15, 2009 at 10:49am
In my experience, splitting to heavier strings, the buzzing problem decreases.
Obviously, a nut slots re-dimension is needed, but just in the width, not the depth, because the under-side of the string lies in the same place of the preceding lighter one. Also a truss-rod adjustment is required. All the other parameters are the same. If a guitar is well built it doesn't need to be tuned so low; one step is enough. The more you low the tuning, the more it will buzz.
I reached very low action on 12 strings. Lower than in 6 strings.
I'm using mediums since ten years ago. Never felt the need to go back to lights. Much more power, volume and general tone.
Comment by John Bjorkman on September 15, 2009 at 8:36am
The good thing about heavier gauge strings is that they're better at both tone and volume production. If your instrument can take the extra strain, it's just your hands that will have to adjust. I've spoken with guys from Martin, Taylor, Guild and a couple of custom shops, and they all say that, on a 12-string, a heavier gauge string demands a lower tuning of at least three half-steps (E down to a C#). Not just for the neck, but also the bridge glue, and even the top itself. They all had confidence in *their* instruments, but were leery about giving generic advice.

In addition to the nut slot depth and bridge height, another thing to note is that the extra tension of a heavier gauge string will modify the action. Most likely, it will raise the action a bit. This will eliminate some buzzing, but you may have to tweak the truss rods to get everything just right.

As Robert points out, a heavier gauge string is capable of buzzing more. But this can be offset with a lighter touch, since the heavier gauge strings naturally produce more volume.

You might try this experiment: measure your current action and carefully inspect the bow of the top, and the top-contact of the bridge. Then, leave everything adjusted as is and put on a set of mediums. Tune them down, say, to a B. Measure the action and reinspect. (keep written notes) If all looks and sounds good, give it an hour or so to "settle in" and remeasure. (you can play it during this time) Then, tune up to a C and repeat. If all is going well, continue to C#. As the action increases, note the feel and buzzing (if any). Make sure the bridge isn't lifting.

You should find a comfortable feel and sound along the way, with tweaks to the truss rod, saddle and string slots being all that you might need to be concerned with.
Comment by Robert Hancox on September 15, 2009 at 7:13am
It's not the width of the nut slots it's the depth. It the nut slots were cut specifically for lights, they'd be too deep for a larger gauge. Though I'm no expert, that just sounds logical to me. Do you know where the buzzing is originating from?
Comment by Edward Sparks on September 15, 2009 at 7:06am
Assuming the nut slots are wide enough (something I hadn't considered) wouldn't the medium's extra tension stop the buzzing? Since this is a 1980 Martin, there is no truss rod, so that's out...thanks for you support! Edward
Comment by Robert Hancox on September 15, 2009 at 7:00am
It would seem that if lights already buzz, mediums would be worse. Not only would a truss rod tweak be in order, but the nut may also be slotted too deeply. If you stay with lights, a truss rod adjustment should be all that's needed.
Comment by Edward Sparks on September 15, 2009 at 4:59am
Thanks Joe,
I have a 1980 Guild JF212XL that I used extra lights on but it is tuned to pitch (gotta love those Guilds with the double truss rods) but I have never used mediums. I have another Guild 6 string that I tune down a whole step and I actually experimented for months to find just the right gauge, happy ending though...I put together a set from that is perfect!

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