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Any try or use Elixir Nanoweb Phosphor Bronze .010-.047 yet? If so, opinions? 3 Replies

Started by Martin van Dooremalen. Last reply by Dave Fengler Sep 1.

Hummingbird 12 string and Gibson Restoration 3 Replies

Started by TheValleyGirl. Last reply by Jim Yates Jul 6.

Hummingbird 12 string and Gibson Restoration 1 Reply

Started by TheValleyGirl. Last reply by Dave Fengler Jul 6.

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Comment by Edward Sparks on August 10, 2011 at 9:28pm

Hi Jay P.  Yes, I have lots of experience with inlay...when you are ready for Q&A, just give me a holler! Here are a few of my instruments that I inlaid.  The falcon and the birds on the 8 string are ivory.   Edward

Comment by Jay P. on August 10, 2011 at 7:00pm

Thank you gents, and pardon my lag in reply; sometimes I am far from computerland. Ed, your link is spot on, and I never thought to look to Stewart-MacDonald. I have a copy of catalog #127, and some of the bits on page 30 look perfect. Robin, I have to go with the probability that the worse glue to use is what was used. I think I can do this with my flex shaft on my Dremel. I do have a magnifying work light that will give plenty of light. I plan to use the saddle from my Framus 12-string as a starting point for the new saddle. 


Edward, if this goes well, I may try my hand @ some simple inlay work on the ebony bridge, have you and experience with inlays?


Thanks again Gents!


Jay P.

Comment by Ed Mehollin on August 5, 2011 at 9:17am
Yep. It is free and informative.
Comment by Edward Sparks on August 5, 2011 at 5:14am
Since I build instruments, I use Stewmac alot!  You should go to their site and sign up for the Trade Secrets Newsletter.  Even if you don't built or repair they are really interesting!  Edward
Comment by Ed Mehollin on August 4, 2011 at 10:14pm

Jay, here is one of their Trade Secrets columns that is relevant:


Comment by Ed Mehollin on August 4, 2011 at 9:29pm
Jay - surf through I seem to remember some discussion about routing out a saddle.
Comment by Robin June Nakkula on August 3, 2011 at 9:21pm
Did the saddle-gluer at least do the responsible thing and use hot glue instead of superglue?  If so, another luthier can free it and remove all traces that it was ever bound.
Comment by Jay P. on August 3, 2011 at 8:51pm

My Guild G-312NT came with micarta, as Christopher mentioned. I bought her in 1981, in '86 the nut fractured. It was "just a nut" and I took her to a local music shop in Columbus, Mississippi. The tech there replaced it with a graphite nut, and I have been pretty satisfied with it. What I did not know was that the idiot glued the saddle in place in the ebony bridge. I discovered this a few years later when I wanted to lower the action a bit; and I was back in Europe again. I've left it in placed and have toyed with the thought of using a dremel with a small dental drill/burr to slowly chew away at the saddle until it was gone, then replace with bone.

   Back to the graphite use, I do use graphite from a pencil to lube the nut when changing strings. Glad to learn others like Edward and John are doing the same thing.

     If you have ideas about the glued in saddle, I'd like to hear what you would suggest. I already know what caliber I would use on the tech ;-).


Be well all, and thank you.


Jay P.  





Comment by Edward Sparks on August 1, 2011 at 10:19am

Good advice John...AND your guitar doesn't get chapped lips! ;-)

I think that some of the lubricants for guitar nuts is basically the same as chapstick anyway, and the chapstick would be cheaper!  Thanks, Edward

Comment by John Gundrum on August 1, 2011 at 9:34am
One other 'cheap' lubricant that is well suited for electric guitars is Chapstick (lip balm).  Basically any point the string touches something else should be lubricated.  Graphite is excellent for the nut slots but not as good for points at the bridge or on the string trees holding down string on the headstock.  Lip balm is a good choice to use at metal to metal points.

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