The standard nutwidth on Seagull guitars is 1.8 inches.
This is wider that practically any other manufacturer. A few Seagull models (The Entourage and the S-6 Original "slim" feature a 1.72 inch nut and the high-end Peppino D'Agostino model is actually a whopping 1.9 inches.
Today I played a very nice Breedlove that had a 1.68 inch and I could barely form chords. I could live with a 1.75 inch nut which is fairly common among major guitar makers.
Personally, I chose my Seagull in large part because the 1.8 inch nut made it easier for me to play with my big old slightly arthritic fingers. In looking for my next guitar, nut width will be a big factor in my decision.
How about you??
I bought my first guitar when I was 17. Before Christmas of my senior year in high school (1980!), my Grandmother said "if I gave you $250 for Christmas, would you buy a guitar and take lessons?" I said yes, went with a friend (also 17) who played guitar to a music store he knew, spent $250 on a Penco dreadnought (made in Japan or Korea - don't remember), and took lessons until May of 1981. Took guitar to college, played a little over the years, got married, lost guitar in divorce (1998), and didn't get another guitar until I bought my Aria in a pawn shop for $100 in 2001. BTW, the Aria has a 1.68" nut...
I really knew nothing about nut width differences. I began playing in church, and another guy had a Martin (D-15, I think), and I wondered why his seemed easier to play than mine. Only within this year did I realize that there were nut width differences! This happened because a friend of mine gave me 4 left-handed guitars earlier this year - he had collected many, had some stolen from him, and couldn't play anymore due to a hand injury. My Cordoba C5 was one of them, but easily restrung to righty. This has a 2" nut width. The others were a Martin DM-L, a Fender DG-10CELH, and a Gibson Les Paul electric. Oh, if only they were right-handed...
I traded the Gibson for my Seagull Performer CW Flame Maple Q1, and I was immediately enamored with the wider, 1.8" nut. I told my wife "if I had this guitar in high school, I might be Tommy Emmanuel now!" Well, maybe not, but I'd be better...
So, I now want to get a Seagull Maritime SWS SG with no electronics to complement my Performer. I want all my acoustics (steel-string, anyway) to have the same "feel", the same "playability". The 1.8" nut is far better for me and, luckily, the Seagulls are, IMHO, the best value for the under-$1000 guitar set.
A sidenote to this - my lefty friend tried to form some chords on my Performer, found his hand didn't hurt as much with the 1.8" nut, and bought himself a Seagull S6 Left! So he's trying to play again. Maybe his health insurance should pay for the wider nut guitar - occupational therapy and all that? LOL!!
I'm not sure how they class my M12. It measures 1.95 at the first fret and 2.05 at the third. The actual nut is just a little wider. I find it very comfortable with my long fingers, and as I learn bass runs it seems just right to me. I think it is easier to play than my Yamaha FG160 where hammer-ons are concerned.
Bought several wide-neck guitars (some electric) since starting guitar this Januray, learned the lesson hard way, that when it comes to selling, nobody wants them (online), lost more money on these suckers, IMO better buy regular-neck guitar, convert them to 5-string by replacing the nut. Well at least that is for me lol.
I only strum, no picking, so the low-E string is not necessary. Even when there is the low-E string, I don't touch it playing open chords. For "G" chord, I only play bottom 4 strings, same for other chords unless it is "E" or related chords where the low-A string matters.
Up to 195 songs...
Have you tried an alternate tuning? You can drop that low E string to D and it opens up a whole new way to play. John Denver did a few that way like RockyMtnHigh. I saw how to do it on youtube and it has been a lot of fun for me.
My tune The Loon and the Mist is in Dropped-D with S6 Cedar tuned a whole step down (so actually dropped C on D-standard)