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Goya and Levin Guitar Owners


Goya and Levin Guitar Owners

A group for those of us who own and appreciate or don't own and just appreciate Goya and Levin Guitars made in Goteborg Sweden for over 70 years!

Members: 77
Latest Activity: Apr 27

Discussion Forum

Just bought my 1st Levin! LS-18 3 Replies

Hey folks,I've just bought my first Levin, a 1964 LS-18. It was at a 2nd hand music shop about 1000 miles away from me - but I know the owner so have made a plan. Below is what I know about this…Continue

Started by Aden Hinds. Last reply by Andrew Perry Aug 1, 2015.

Levin Archtops 1 Reply

Hi everyone,lately,I've gotten into acoustic Archtop guitars,I bought a Levin Model number 27 recently,in really good condition considering its age,does anyone here own and play one of these…Continue

Started by Iain Brennan. Last reply by Jacob Ullberger Apr 17, 2015.

N26 Alert 1 Reply

Hi Friends...There's a nice looking mid-60's Goya ready for the taking. Priced at or below value.I'm out of the race but I thought I'd share.…Continue

Started by Dave G. Last reply by Jim Yates Apr 6, 2015.

Crazing or checking on finish 8 Replies

My 1958 M-26 has a crazing…Continue

Started by Jim Yates. Last reply by Magnus Hultin Feb 11, 2015.

Comment Wall


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Comment by Mike Raeburn on April 27, 2016 at 2:55am

Suggest you get a split die and an adjustable die holder, the sort with three screws in it. That way you can open out the die slightly and cut the thread on the large side. Could help if the holes in the bridge are worn slightly bigger. You can always run down the thread again with the die set slightly closer if it turns out too big. You can always cut things smaller, cutting them bigger is tricky!

Comment by John Buckle on April 26, 2016 at 2:44am

Thanks for the info on die. I now see how the numbering goes on metric. I assumed the bigger the number the finer the thread as in TPI. I can obtain the M8 0.75 on ebay or possibly Machine Mart. I have a spare insert so I knew thread was fine just haven't sourced a material yet. The nylon originals look as though they were created in too halves. I wonder why. Tusq was not around then but Galaith was. Some of the latter is also on Ebay. Will do a bit more research I think, keep these tips coming.

Comment by Jim Yates on April 25, 2016 at 6:31pm

I would agree with keeping the instrument original if the original incarnation was the best solution, but when a mod is also an improvement, then I'll go for it.  My 1958 Goya M-26 had tuners that were too tight and I almost needed vice grips to turn them, so I replaced them.  I also had a bone saddle installed.
I owned a Gibson J-50 that had an adjustable saddle which I had replaced.  This was a big improvement.  I believe I'd probably replaced a bridge with individual saddles with a solid saddle as well.

Comment by Magnus Hultin on April 25, 2016 at 3:01pm

Again, the thread is M8 0.75

Believe me...

This allows for fine adjustment of 0.375 mm on one half rotation at the saddle location, resulting in a change of just below 0,2mm at 12th fret.

Comment by John Buckle on April 25, 2016 at 4:43am

Yes that's right. There are two die's for me to try. 1.00 and 1.25. I suspect the 1.25 is the correct one but have yet to try it, and I am totally in agreement in keeping as original as possible. I have just finished rebuilding a Mandolin Banjo so hopefully will have a bit more time to do some tests on material.

Comment by Mike Raeburn on April 25, 2016 at 4:09am

Careful! There are two versions of Metric, coarse and fine, make sure you have the correct one. Use a thread gauge or try to fit the original saddle's thread into the thread on the 8mm tap to see which it is.

I know some folks have replaced the individual saddles with a solid saddle either in a new bridge or by filling and routing the original, I don't really agree with that. In my view the instruments should be kept as original as possible.

Comment by John Buckle on April 25, 2016 at 2:14am

Thanks for that Magnus. I have picked up a couple of dies which will cut the right thread I reckon,M8 1.25 but sourcing the material is the next step. I had already guessed that bone might be a bit brittle especially when screwing them in. My thoughts were for Tusq or possibly deer antler. Galalith seems like an interesting idea but does it improve the tone? It appears to be a sort of plastic similar to Bakalite. I want to keep the guitar as original as I can so any modifications are reversible.I might even try a steel screw in saddle as an experiment.

Comment by Magnus Hultin on April 24, 2016 at 12:19pm

The tread is M8 x 0.75, meaning 0.75 movement along centerline on one full rotation. I have made replacement screws of bot bone and Galalith. Bone is difficult to workwith as it is extremely brittle and does not thread well.

Galalith is splendid to work wioth but difficult to obtain. The obvious alternative is to replace the bridge to one with standard slot & saddle, or plug the holes and route a saddleslot.

Comment by Ted Hechtman on April 15, 2016 at 12:48pm
Comment by Mike Raeburn on April 14, 2016 at 4:31pm

Having just looked at the bridge on my LN26, it should be possible to drill out the holes to the next size up and re-thread them. A lot less hassle than replacing the bridge. Or if the original threads are only a little loose, the inside of the hole could be coated with epoxy and rethreaded at the original size. For replacement saddles you can buy nylon bar on eBay, £3.80 for 300mm x 6mm, or I suppose you could try some other material like brass? I have re-profiled one of my saddles twice now and the small amount lost has made no difference. A lot of folks don't like the individual bridge screws, they say they degrade the tone. Well I have two Levins identical all respects apart from the bridge. One has individual bridge screws, the other has a solid saddle and I can detect no difference between them in tone or volume using Elixir 10s.


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