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Goya and Levin Guitar Owners


Goya and Levin Guitar Owners

A group for those of us who own and appreciate or don't own and just appreciate Goya and Levin Guitars made in Goteborg Sweden for over 70 years!

Members: 74
Latest Activity: Nov 17

Discussion Forum

Goya Quadrant 9 Replies

Hi,I am looking for any information about Goya Quadrant pickups wiring.Does anybody know something about ?Thank you for lookingThank youWith kind regardsJean-PierreContinue

Started by Jean-Pierre Simonnet. Last reply by Mike Raeburn Nov 7.

Goya TS-4 1964 Vintage 8 Replies

Just joined group so I thought  this might be of interest. I was recently looking for an inexpensive 12 string and was close to buying an Epiphone but the seller didn't return my call. So I checked…Continue

Started by jack stepick. Last reply by Ted Hechtman Nov 5.


Hello My name is Erin Finnegan and I am a Prop master for a theatre in Fort Worth. We are doing The Sound of Music. I know this sounds like an odd question, but do any of you know of any place or…Continue

Tags: help, rent, goya

Started by Erin Finnegan. Last reply by Rob Griffiths Sep 14.


Hello My name is Erin Finnegan and I am a Prop master for a theatre in Fort Worth. We are doing The Sound of Music. I know this sounds like an odd question, but do any of you know of any place or…Continue

Tags: help, rent, goya

Started by Erin Finnegan Aug 28.

Comment Wall


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Comment by Mike Raeburn on November 17, 2014 at 5:23am

Further and further (!) to my last, here is the link to StewMac's site showing how you remove a fret board.

Hope this helps!

Comment by Mike Raeburn on November 10, 2014 at 1:39am

Further to my last and just to be perfectly clear, you do NOT have to remove the neck. Just the fret board.

Comment by Mike Raeburn on November 10, 2014 at 1:35am

If you use the wedge method firstly measure the height of the action at the twelfth fret with the guitar strung to concert tension. Decide by how much you wish to lower the action, this will usually be a few millimetres, round it up to the next full millimetre. If the action ends up too low you can always raise the bridge slightly to get it correct. Then you use heat lamps to soften the glue all the way along the fret board. Use thin polystyrene sheet with the shiny side of baking foil on top of it to make a reflective and insulating barrier around the fret board end where it lies on the soundboard. Use a thin spatula to ease the fret board away from the soundboard and the neck starting at the soundboard end. Do not force this, if it is not hot enough to allow the blade to slide under, heat it some more. You can see this on the Stewmac site. Once you have the fret board off, clean it and the top of the neck to remove any glue residue. You can get suitable mahogany from any luthier's wood supplier, there are loads on the 'net. You will need a piece slightly longer and wider than the fret board. You will probably have to buy a neck blank if they can't supply a suitable piece. Plane the piece down to the thickness you need from the measurements you took. Then sand it down to a wedge shape so that it tapers in thickness from zero to the required thickness. Be warned, I have good woodworking skills and it took me two attempts to get it right! You can try the piece in place with the fret board on top to check how it looks. Once you are happy with height and taper, trim the sides to match the fret board's width and length. Re-glue the wedge and fret board in place with Titebond glue using light clamp pressure. Before it sets CHECK the position of the fret board relative to the bridge otherwise the intonation will be off. Good luck!

Comment by David Punfield on November 9, 2014 at 3:57pm

Mike , sorry for my ignorance but a couple of further questions concerning your reply. Where would you obtain the piece of wood from to make the wedge.  This wedge would run from where the neck meets guitar body to the end of the fretboard . Also Im assuming that the neck would have to be removed to insert the wedge, but by doing it this way it would eliminate taking wood from the heel to obtain the correct angle. I have no ides if it has ever been strung with steel strings . The last owner had it for over 20 years and I received it strung with nylon strings      

Comment by Mike Raeburn on November 6, 2014 at 5:23pm

If it's an LG13 then I would suggest the shallow wedge under the finger board solution. Cheapest and easiest way to fix it. Most if not all of the classical guitars had dovetail necks. It was not a particularly cheap model when it came out so worth saving. I have an LG 8 from 1979 and it is quite good despite being one of the Japanese assembled ones. Has yours been strung with steel strings at some point? Quickest way I know to wreck the action on a classical guitar.

Comment by David Punfield on November 6, 2014 at 3:45pm

Mike thanks for info . I purchased the Levin for £20 so Im willing to have a go at that price . It is unplayable as it is .   There don't appear to be any bolts on the lg13 model .   Regards Dave

Comment by Mike Raeburn on November 6, 2014 at 6:00am

David Punfield sent an email asking about removing the neck of a Levin and where to drill the holes for steam injection. Hopefully he will see this post as I can't see any way to reply to that email. If any of you know how to reply please let me know via this thread.

David, the necks on most Levins are bolted and can be removed by releasing the two screws in the neck block. You will need a square ended key to do this, I made one by welding the square end of a broken tap into a 1/4in socket and grinding it down a bit to fit. The holes in the bolts are 5mm square and my key measures 4.95mm square. You might find a suitably sized key on Stewmac's site.

When the neck is slackened you have to heat the end of the fingerboard where it is glued down on the top to release it. It must be really hot before the glue melts to allow it to release without taking a chunk out of the top and destroying the guitar. I use spotlight bulbs to heat it with silver foil on thin polystyrene sheet around the end of the fingerboard to keep the heat off the top. When it is good and hot slide a spatula between the fingerboard end and the top to make sure it is free before you attempt to move the neck. Once you get the neck off you remake the heel having worked out how much of an angle the neck needs to be moved before you took it off. Needs very accurate measurement to get it correct, it is also possible to end up with the neck not at right angles to the body and or gaps between the neck and body. Either disaster will ruin the guitar.

Some Levins had dovetailed necks and they can be released by injecting steam as per the usual method. Having done this a few times I can tell you by far the easiest way is to remove the fingerboard completely using the aforementioned heat method. With the fingerboard removed you can get at the joint easily. If you still want to do it the traditional way, pull the fret nearest to the edge of the body or just above the body. Sometimes you have to remove two frets to get the correct place. You will still have to release the end of the fingerboard from the top.

You then have two options. Firstly use steam to remove the neck and remake the joint to give the correct angle. Highly skilled job, you must have exceptional measuring and wood working skills to get this right. If you have not done it before - don't! (Practice on scrap guitars first!)

The second and far less intrusive way is to make a thin wedge of Mahogany to fit under the fingerboard so that it is lifted up the appropriate amount to reduce the height of the action. Jimmy Moon at Moon Guitars in Glasgow did this on a little Mahogany N-212 I have and it worked really well.

I have since done the same on another guitar but in that case I did not carry the wedge all the way to the end of the fingerboard and left the bit above the top free floating like you get on an archtop. To my ear it improved the tone of the guitar. You will probably have to fit a new bone bridge to get the action just right if it has the fixed bridge as opposed to the adjustable screws.

Anyway hope that helps answer your query.

Comment by Mike Raeburn on November 5, 2014 at 5:45pm

Hi Ted, Glad you like it! I found it fascinating, it certainly laid to rest many of the myths that had grown up around the Martin take over. The facts about the early years were also very illuminating. I would recommend it to any Levin or Goya owner who is interested in the history of their instrument.

Comment by Ted Hechtman on November 5, 2014 at 5:28pm

I got a copy of the Levin documentary and I love it!!!

Comment by Mike Raeburn on October 10, 2014 at 3:14am

Actually Dave that's about right for a new guitar, custom built of that quality. I bought my LN-26 new in 1968 for the price of £65. I had just started out as a secondary school teacher at the munificent salary of £625 pa. So my guitar cost me roughly 10% of my annual wage. A secondary teacher's starting salary is now around £26,000 so the Levin would cost around £2,600 in equivalent terms. You could buy the one on eBay but it has a badly split top and looks 'well used' to be polite. Probably not worth more than $200. My LN-26 is as good as you will get for that age of guitar, no splits or dings but the usual crazed finish. The action is still very low. It has Schallers on it but the original tuners are in the box and the worn frets have been replaced by Jimmy Moon. He did such a good job I can't tell which ones he replaced and which ones he left. In today's market I would expect it to be worth around £800 but then a thing is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it!


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