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Goya and Levin Guitar Owners


Goya and Levin Guitar Owners

A group for those of us who own and appreciate or don't own and just appreciate Goya and Levin Guitars made in Goteborg Sweden for over 70 years!

Members: 74
Latest Activity: on Monday

Discussion Forum

Crazing or checking on finish 2 Replies

My 1958 M-26 has a crazing…Continue

Started by Jim Yates. Last reply by Andrew Perry on Monday.


Hello My name is Erin Finnegan and I am a Prop master for a theatre in Fort Worth. We are doing The Sound of Music. I know this sounds like an odd question, but do any of you know of any place or…Continue

Tags: help, rent, goya

Started by Erin Finnegan. Last reply by Jim Yates Jan 19.

Goya Quadrant 9 Replies

Hi,I am looking for any information about Goya Quadrant pickups wiring.Does anybody know something about ?Thank you for lookingThank youWith kind regardsJean-PierreContinue

Started by Jean-Pierre Simonnet. Last reply by Mike Raeburn Nov 7, 2014.

Goya TS-4 1964 Vintage 8 Replies

Just joined group so I thought  this might be of interest. I was recently looking for an inexpensive 12 string and was close to buying an Epiphone but the seller didn't return my call. So I checked…Continue

Started by jack stepick. Last reply by Ted Hechtman Nov 5, 2014.

Comment Wall


You need to be a member of Goya and Levin Guitar Owners to add comments!

Comment by Ted Hechtman on January 18, 2015 at 6:03pm

Comment by Ted Hechtman on January 18, 2015 at 6:02pm

Just wanted to mention that I love my N-21. It is the same model that my Father bought when I was 16. I have two of them!

Comment by Ted Hechtman on January 10, 2015 at 5:35pm

Hi everyone. I'm cataloging the Goyas. Which, coming from a Jewish background,  is a little weird. Hah. So you guys (guyas?) know I have way too many guitars. Which, to some, is an impossibility. I'll be taking new pictures so if youse guiys don't mind I will post them here. 

Comment by Ted Hechtman on December 29, 2014 at 10:02am

Comment by Mike Raeburn on November 17, 2014 at 5:23am

Further and further (!) to my last, here is the link to StewMac's site showing how you remove a fret board.

Hope this helps!

Comment by Mike Raeburn on November 10, 2014 at 1:39am

Further to my last and just to be perfectly clear, you do NOT have to remove the neck. Just the fret board.

Comment by Mike Raeburn on November 10, 2014 at 1:35am

If you use the wedge method firstly measure the height of the action at the twelfth fret with the guitar strung to concert tension. Decide by how much you wish to lower the action, this will usually be a few millimetres, round it up to the next full millimetre. If the action ends up too low you can always raise the bridge slightly to get it correct. Then you use heat lamps to soften the glue all the way along the fret board. Use thin polystyrene sheet with the shiny side of baking foil on top of it to make a reflective and insulating barrier around the fret board end where it lies on the soundboard. Use a thin spatula to ease the fret board away from the soundboard and the neck starting at the soundboard end. Do not force this, if it is not hot enough to allow the blade to slide under, heat it some more. You can see this on the Stewmac site. Once you have the fret board off, clean it and the top of the neck to remove any glue residue. You can get suitable mahogany from any luthier's wood supplier, there are loads on the 'net. You will need a piece slightly longer and wider than the fret board. You will probably have to buy a neck blank if they can't supply a suitable piece. Plane the piece down to the thickness you need from the measurements you took. Then sand it down to a wedge shape so that it tapers in thickness from zero to the required thickness. Be warned, I have good woodworking skills and it took me two attempts to get it right! You can try the piece in place with the fret board on top to check how it looks. Once you are happy with height and taper, trim the sides to match the fret board's width and length. Re-glue the wedge and fret board in place with Titebond glue using light clamp pressure. Before it sets CHECK the position of the fret board relative to the bridge otherwise the intonation will be off. Good luck!

Comment by David Punfield on November 9, 2014 at 3:57pm

Mike , sorry for my ignorance but a couple of further questions concerning your reply. Where would you obtain the piece of wood from to make the wedge.  This wedge would run from where the neck meets guitar body to the end of the fretboard . Also Im assuming that the neck would have to be removed to insert the wedge, but by doing it this way it would eliminate taking wood from the heel to obtain the correct angle. I have no ides if it has ever been strung with steel strings . The last owner had it for over 20 years and I received it strung with nylon strings      

Comment by Mike Raeburn on November 6, 2014 at 5:23pm

If it's an LG13 then I would suggest the shallow wedge under the finger board solution. Cheapest and easiest way to fix it. Most if not all of the classical guitars had dovetail necks. It was not a particularly cheap model when it came out so worth saving. I have an LG 8 from 1979 and it is quite good despite being one of the Japanese assembled ones. Has yours been strung with steel strings at some point? Quickest way I know to wreck the action on a classical guitar.

Comment by David Punfield on November 6, 2014 at 3:45pm

Mike thanks for info . I purchased the Levin for £20 so Im willing to have a go at that price . It is unplayable as it is .   There don't appear to be any bolts on the lg13 model .   Regards Dave


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