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Restoring a Miniature 6 Replies

Started by Luis Motta da Silva. Last reply by Luis Motta da Silva Mar 1.

What's inside a Portuguese guitar? 1 Reply

Started by Luis Motta da Silva. Last reply by Kevin McCornack aka Dr. Moreau Aug 31, 2014.

Inlays. How to? 10 Replies

Started by Luis Motta da Silva. Last reply by Luis Motta da Silva Jan 4, 2014.

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Comment by Antonio Cotichini on September 20, 2011 at 10:08am
Jud... why don't you try to put a very slim piece of wood in front of the saddle to fill the gap with the bridge slot and restore the right angle?
Comment by John on September 20, 2011 at 9:01am
I overhauled a Martin 000-18 (mid 60s vintage) a few years ago and the first saddle I made had this problem.  I didn't seem to put the bridge in jeopardy but it did cause problems with the way the instrument played.  It changed the geometry at the bridge and saddle (slightly) but the break angle was lowered and the intonation was marginally changed.  It also seemed to cause a whine in the high "E" string.  As it was not my guitar I re-worked it and got it right.
Comment by Jud Hair on September 20, 2011 at 7:36am

Question about replacing a saddle ...


Last night I replaced the 7-year-old saddle on my 2005 Seagull Artist Mosaic with a new Tusq saddle.  I sanded it to the correct length to fit snuggly into the slot and then I duplicated the height of the old saddle because the action was fine before.


However, the new saddle appears to be a little less "thick" than the old one. It appeared to fit nicely in the slot until the strings were tightened, then it tilted slightly forward in the bridge slot. 


Is this angle likely to cause any damage to the rosewood bridge?


The guitar sounds great and plays fine.  I feel sure the action is a bit lower as a result of the angle and that doesn't bother me. 


I Just want to make sure that the bridge isn't in any sort of jeopardy.


What do you think ??

Comment by Jud Hair on September 19, 2011 at 2:07pm
John ... though it's hard to see, there are some places right around the sound hole that are down to bare wood surface. 
Comment by John on September 19, 2011 at 1:41pm
Just a thought.  Although I cannot see the amount of "damage" it does not look so bad from the picture.  It may be possible to hand rub the top out (gently) restoring a sheen and minimizing the effect of the scratches.  I personally like rottenstone.  It tends to give a nice soft shine.  You could even do the entire guitar for continuity. If the scratches are through the finish in places this may not be a great idea as exposed wood may be stained in the process.
Comment by Jud Hair on September 19, 2011 at 1:23pm
Edward ... I'm convinced.  Honestly, this is what I love so much about this entire Acoustic Guitar Magazine community ... just a tremendous pool of experience and knowledge from passionate people wo are willing to share!
Comment by Edward Sparks on September 19, 2011 at 1:09pm
Jud, the worse part is that if you do a "refin" (collector's word) on the top, the sound will change forever!  i would leave it alone too!  Beautiful guitar!  Edward
Comment by Jud Hair on September 19, 2011 at 11:46am

Greg ... Thanks!  I think you just conviced me to leave it alone and just enjoy the lovely "character" of the wood ... :-)


No way I could do without playing it for a month!!  Plus all that sounds very expensive.  I got the guitar for $300 ... new ones are around $1,000 or so.  I guess I should be happy to have found such a bargain and just enjoy it!

Comment by Greg Brandt / Maker of Guitars on September 19, 2011 at 11:34am
It's hard to see from the pics but it doesn't look like you've hit raw wood. Yep...there might be some scratches in the wood (but thru the finish?) but that's all "character" in my mind. In my experience, there is no touch up for finish that does not make it look some sort of worse. I talk people out of small fixes of finish all te time in my shop. What can be done if it offends you that much, is just have the entire top re-finished....but, to do it right, the bridge (and obviously the pickguard) should come off so the top can be stripped, sanded, masked, & sprayed. It NEVER looks good if you have to sand around the bridge. The process will take about a month (w/ proper cure for nitro lacquer), the bridge will be reglued and a new pickguard made and put on w/ double sided adhesive. Just what I've found works best.
Comment by Jud Hair on September 19, 2011 at 11:15am

I just bought a wonderful sounding and playing 2005 model Seagull Artist Mosaic with a solid cedar top and solid mahogany sides and back.  The top, in particular is a little "Willie Nelson" even though it doesn't affect the sound at all.  Some of you experienced builder/repair types, give me some feedback there any way to improve, if not restore the finish on the top short of a full-scale major re-work??



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