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Well, my first Martin (definitely not the last), picked it up brand new for 35% off.  Why?  Blemish.

But really, nothing unsightly, only the pickiest person can make a fuss.

Love the sound, love the smaller "concert" size, everything fits like an old glove.  Happy happy joy joy for several days, until I realized it was a "WIDE" version.  Why couldn't Martin say that?  Are there 2 versions?  Looks to me like there is only one version, the WIDE version for this model, then why couldn't the online shops say that in the spec? 

Not only is the neck at nut 1-3/4", but the low-E to high-E distance is 39mm, NOT the standard 35mm.  I thought only Seagull has that 39mm nut?  Other people too?  How the hack do people mute with this guitar?

Now I realized why it "fit like a glove" when I first played it.  I love having the wide-spacing nut because it was easier for me to learn (13 months and 17 guitars and 265 songs and counting) with my fat fingers to play complex chords, BUT the problem with 39mm nut is that it is too wide to MUTE adjecent string comfortably... actually quite damn impossible.  If that was do-able, I would have stayed with 39mm lowE-to-highE nut...

Sidebar - I converted all my guitars to 39mm nuts, and after I learned all the complex chords the gradually switched all to 37mm nuts then 35mm nuts, at the same time learning to mute adjecent strings...

Luckily I have been converting and customizing nuts on my cheap guitars (except this Martin, my first "real" acoustic guitar), so I can fix this myself (think I was a faster learner of being a guitar tech than playing... LOL)

I bought 4 Agile electric guitars, and they would say WIDE version if that is so, why can't Martin say that?  A stealthy way to help local stores, forcing people to go local?  Yes, yes, it was my fault that I did not test them locally first, but they only have Taylors...

Don't get me wrong, love the Martin, just a little mad at the marketers for now...

Sorry if you don't like my rant, just ignore it and me as I probably seem nuts to most people...

Perhaps after I sell off all the cheap guitars, maybe a Martin with a slim neck??? LOL

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I did a lot of research (and drooling) before managing to purchase a Martin, and what I've found is the OM designation is their signal for wide neck and grand auditorium sized body.  The 000 models have a similar body - I think the depth is different, someone else chime in if I'm wrong - but with a "standard" sized neck.  It's just the way they've named their model designs for many decades but they do list the specs on the Martin website.

My buddies poke fun of me for all the obsessive researching I do before buying anything guitar related, but it helps avoid surprises like this one.  Personally I love the wider neck on my OMC1E.  It was the main reason I bought it and it's hard to go back to my dreadnought after getting used to it.

You said you're familiar with wider nut spacing - give the OMCX1KE a chance to grow on you.  You might find that you like having the different size to play with occasionally.  I switch back to my standard dreadnought sometimes but usually find myself reaching for my wider necked Martin.

Martin has just redesigned their site, and I believe your guitar is no longer continued, but it was a far better guitar than expected in that price range. They do publish specs for their guitars and this one although all solid wood probably has similar measurements.  http://www.martinguitar.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&a...

They don't keep the specs secret, but like you, I prefer a more narrow neck.

http://www.edrhoades.com/guitars.htm

Hi Dean,

I use a Martin OMC15E and a while ago I investigated what the numbers meant.

I found that the 'OM' = 'Orchestra model' (body size) The 'C' = cutaway, '15' = series, 'E' = onboard electronics.

Also found this link to a bit of an explanation of the various models...

http://www.musicgearreview.com/article-display/3135.html 

Cheers

Chris

An interesting discussion and some interesting replies.  However I can find specs for a guitar on Martin site which list the nut specs but not the E to E measurement. The nut would give the following distance, 1 3\4 inches =44.4 mm yet the string separation you are speaking of is either 35mm=1.37795276 inches or 39mm=1.53543307 inches.  I  don't see anything on Martin specs which give the string separation measurement. I am going to measure my DCPA1 string separation and my Taylor 2011 Fall Ltd GA KOA .  If I am missing something on the Martin site re the specs perhaps someone will advise.

I guess after trying out a few Martins and reviewing their specs I came to the conclusion that the 1 and 3/4" nut meant wider string spacing, but I think you're correct Byron - never saw the E to E spacing listed on the Martin site.  Excellent point and brings up a question that someone more experienced than me can hopefully answer: If you see a wider nut, can you assume that it means a wider string spacing?  That's what I did and it turned out well for me, but not our friend Dean here.  Anyone know?

A little follow up. Contacted my music store guitar specialist, did not know of the measurement related to string spread, thought it would be standard on 1 ¾ nut. Additionally, my measurements may be off slightly due to tape measure and my eyes, but these are figures I found.

Guitar:

Cort

one and three quarters nut at the headstock

one sixteenth less at the top of the nut

string spacing E to E on the nut one and thee eights (6\16)

1 6/16 inches = 34.92500 millimeters

Martin DCPA1

one and 13 sixteenths nut at headstock

one sixteenth less at top of nut thus 1 and three quarters

string spacing E to E on the nut one and nine sixteenths

1 9/16 inches = 39.6875 millimeters

Taylor 2011 Fall Ltd GA KOA

one and 13 sixteenths nut at headstock

one sixteenth less at top of nut thus 1 and three quarters

string spacing E to E on the nut one and 9 sixteenths

1 9/16 inches = 39.6875 millimeters

I have small fingers, and practice playing on my Cort. Have heavy gauge strings, and terribly high action. It builds finger strength and determination. Best for playing and practicing barre chords.

Martin excellent playability for me but still I have to work hard to play barre chords up the neck.

Taylor beyond my expectations for playability, still working on barre chords but even with medium strings find it as easy to play as the Martin. Action on Taylor and Martin set to my preference. In conclusion I am going to see what is available retail as to 35 mm string space as it would seem to provide both ability to mute and possibly (at least for me)different barring solutions. As originally said what an interesting topic. If you find anything further Logan, please let us know as well.

TRUSS ROD?

Well, I installed a set of 9 guage strings (actually electric strings since acoustic stops at "10") and apparently it is too loose and there is fuzzing, ordered a couple sets of "10" Martin strings which will take a few days to come in.  Tried to adjust the truss rod like I have done successfully on all my cheapies but both my allen keys (all my cheapies accept one or the other) would not reach it, or perhaps this entry-level Martin doesn't have a truss rod.. oh well, I will wait for the "10" strings to come in... its tension will bow the neck enough so the strings are away from the frets... forgot to mention I broke string #3 on the set that came on the guitar due to accidental over-tensioning it, usually only the #1 string is venerable (I have packs of 9, 10, and 11 guages string on standby), but apparently the others too..

As for the nut, I settled on in-between, a 37mm E-to-E, not quite the 39mm it came with, and not quite the standard 35mm.  I got nuts from 35mm to 39mm (including 36mm and 38mm), some had to be gotten from UK, but in the end 39mm is just too far apart, hard to do Emaj7 (where the index finger has to hold down #3 and #4 strings), am afraid my fingers are not that fat after all. 

Martins require a special truss rod tool with an extended handle - the nut is under the end of the fretboard (in the soundhole) but can't be reached with a standard allen wrench.  At least that's what I've found on my OMC1E.  When I've had to run the heater in my apartment and it dries the air out, the B string buzzes (with .12 gauge strings no less).  When I went to adjust it no allen wrench I had would reach.

I think it's Martin's way of idiot-proofing their guitars - plenty of people have over tightened their truss rods and screwed up the neck.  You can buy a truss rod wrench from the Martin website though.  There are two models, a $4 one and an $8 one.  Not sure of the difference other than one having a handle.

Hate to say it amigo, but with the Stratabond neck the .10s probably won't budge it.  Those necks are sturdy.  Since you're changing the nut anyway, maybe you could make it a little higher than the original nut?  And (someone else stop me if I'm wrong here) a little shim under the saddle to raise it up a little?  As long as the shim is even I don't believe it would have an effect on the under saddle pickup.  Again, someone please tell us if this is incorrect.

Thanks, actually I raised the nut twice last night, still buzz.  Today I put in a new nut which is 2mm higher, still buzz, the action is so high now I thought there should not be any problem, the strings are so far away from the frets...  Sure will figure it out soon, always do.  Thanks again.

Love that amp/tuner on the Martin, best one of all I have, tune 10x faster than the rest, user-friendly, fast-accurate!

OK, I found out what the buzz was, it was a "sympathy buzz", it gets activate only what I play the G-string open.  Sympathy buzz is when some screw or some other item is loose on the guitar, and if by co-incident you play a note that matches the frequency of that loose item, it buzzes.  In my case, it was one of the machine head/tuning peg.  You see, I play only 5 strings and would remove the low-E string, and since that machine head/tuning peg now does not have a string on it, it buzzes when I play the G-string open, which is of course the worse since it buzzes even when I am just tuning the guitar...

So now I just strap a rubberband between it and a neighboring head to take up the slack, and the buzz is COMPLETELY GONE!!!  Thanks. 

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