"The selling of my 5-15 Terz is just another in a long string of dumb moves. That thing Gordon's ( isn't that his name? ) playing looks smaller, though.Wassup, Greg? Better get a prototype out. I seem to remember mine…"
"Holy crap, Michael! Who knew you were packing such an arsenal of flattops? And to think I was feeling sorry for you. I'll be interested in hearing your review of the L00. Who, may I ask, did you buy from?"
"You play the ES fingerstyle???? Yea, I thought I recalled that you were a fingerpicker. I figure you don't live nearby a large enough Gibson dealer to be able to try out L00's or other permutations of the 0's. …"
"I was referring to the forum that Gibson oversees. http://forum.gibson.com/
I know you wouldn't buy a vintage sight unseen from prior comments. In the 'Acoustic' section of the forum, I think you'd get some good feedback on…"
"Hi Michael. I'm only interested in old guitars, and have owned three 30's era L00s. I loved 'em all, including my current '35. I also have a 12 fret '31 L0 ( son of L1 ) which is quieter, if you like strumming…"
"I'm not an authority by any means, except that I've always been disappointed in the general undervaluing that goes on around Goya/Levin flattops. I'll assume it's true of their archtops as well. My guess, even in…"
"Help me out here, folks. We all probably read Richard A. Burns tale of woe and intrigue in the form of a message to all. Does anyone know where that appears on this forum or page. How would one respond to it if it only appears in…"
"Alan...when I attempt to get a saddle out of a bridge slot, if it isn't loose enough to just wiggle out, I'll sometimes score between the wood and the saddle with a NEW straight razor blade. Then I'll use a chopstick with light…"
"For my money, Aden, I find ladder braced flat tops ultimately disappointing for their lack of bass so I don't own any. I believe this is LB. It could be fun to have and play though, especially if it isn't your only guitar. I'd want to…"
"Hi all. I have a site question perhaps someone could answer. There is a new comment up regarding questions about the model 131. Sure you folks see it in your email too, but I can't find where it appears on the forum…"
"Doubt you'll get satisfaction comparing any little 0 size to your M20. Couldn't put mine down either...'til I found a '30-32 L0 12 fretter. Think I even preferred the M20 to Martin's 0-17 and I played them side by side…"
"I sold my '64 M20 a few years back, and like many of my old boxes, I soon regretted it. Think I paid $800 for it, but was playing it to compare to a late 50's Martin 0-17. Boy was that a tortuous toss up. Dumped 'em…"
Hi Dave, I paid $212.50 for a well worn 1958 LS 16. I reset the neck did a little fret work and added a K&K pickup. I played 2 shows with the guitar and it held up really well with the lap steel and fiddle in my Western Swing Band. I especially like the look, nearly Willie Nelson with chips around the sound hole and worn away finish around the pick guard. It's part of the show now.
Glad to her from ya Dave, glad your still enjoying that J45.we have had a great run this year on all our vintage acoustic guitars and just cant keep them on the site for very long ( good thing). Keep in contact .
Sorry for taking so long to respond....I've been jumping in the shop with a sudden flush of orders for these small "alto" steel string guitars my apprentice and I have been making.
So....how are you thinking of having this top restoration done? Are you just going to yank out the "2x4" (and if so.....how?) and let the original bracing suffice? Are you thinking of completely re-bracing the top w/ new braces? If so...how were you imagining doing / having this done? take off the top? take off the back? new top (don't do that!)? When you say "re-done bracing", I'm guessing that you'll pull that 2x4 somehow (hope it was glued in w/ a heat / water soluble glue) and let the old bracing stay and use light tension strings. Sometimes wood has a memory (often really) and if the top was "potato chipped" for a while....I wonder if when the support is gone if it will go back to it's dipped position. On some nylon string guitar that were known for being underbraced and dipping down in front of the bridge....my teacher (and by that I mean....often I would do the work) would install what he called a "flying brace". There would be two "pillars" glued on to the sides in line with where the dip was. They wouldn't go the entire length of the side. They would butt up against the back linings and stop about 1/2" or so from the top linings. A wing like brace would be made of Spruce or Fir, about 3/8" square, that spanned these pillars, with a little "button" of wood that, when the wings were wedged into these pillars, would press up on the center brace and force it up a bit and add extra upward support. I'm not sure if something similar could be done to exert enough force on a steel string (maybe pushing up at the intersection of the X brace....tho I realize this guitar may be ladder braced). It's just an idea....and one that's not easily or clearly explained here. If the original braces are in good shape and the 2x4 support is taken out cleanly (without taking out too much top wood) and the strings tensioned appropriately.....maybe it will work just fine. If the guitar finds that it's missing the extra support.....maybe something similar but lighter would be a good compromise. Maybe 2 or 3 pieces of veneer (Maple, Mahogany), w/ the grain alternating, would give it enough support but be less massive than what you describe.
I'm sorry to ramble...the only way I can do this is to think / write out loud. If you want to actually TALK about it....send me an email at email@example.com and I'll send you my phone number.
BTW.....that's a sweet looking guitar you have!! I love Mahogany topped guitars. I just got an order for a small guitar w/ mahogany top, back, and sides. I can do all sorts of things w/ these small guitars that I could never get away with in my "regular" work of building nylon string guitars. Here's a pic of a small Mahogany steel string I just sold.