"Doubt you'll get satisfaction comparing any little 0 size to your M20. Couldn't put mine down either...'til I found a '30-32 L0 12 fretter. Think I even preferred the M20 to Martin's 0-17 and I played them side by side…"
"I sold my '64 M20 a few years back, and like many of my old boxes, I soon regretted it. Think I paid $800 for it, but was playing it to compare to a late 50's Martin 0-17. Boy was that a tortuous toss up. Dumped 'em…"
"Hi David. You may wish to consider keeping the listing on your side of the pond, as I've always noted complainingly how undervalued the Xbraced Goya/Levins are when they show up in the US listings. You guys over there just seem to…"
"Saddle material is pretty important, maybe nut too, but brigepins don't need to be anything special. Vibrant tonewood top and bracing are the springboard of good sound, I believe. If you've ever owned a high end acoustic even…"
"Interesting, Mike. I can see how simply routing a slot could backfire and the resulting potential for irreversible weakening of the bridge while under stress. The threaded tusq sounds interesting but for the $70-80 it would cost,…"
"Hi Dave, I paid $212.50 for a well worn 1958 LS 16. I reset the neck did a little fret work and added a K&K pickup. I played 2 shows with the guitar and it held up really well with the lap steel and fiddle in my Western Swing…"
"If I may advise, I think it would be wise to restring it with 11's, ( I like Dunlop 80-20's ) and even start out tuned down a half so you can observe the guitar ( bridge, top ) while under slightly reduced stress.
You have one of the…"
Hi Dave, I paid $212.50 for a well worn 1958 LS 16. I reset the neck did a little fret work and added a K&K pickup. I played 2 shows with the guitar and it held up really well with the lap steel and fiddle in my Western Swing Band. I especially like the look, nearly Willie Nelson with chips around the sound hole and worn away finish around the pick guard. It's part of the show now.
Glad to her from ya Dave, glad your still enjoying that J45.we have had a great run this year on all our vintage acoustic guitars and just cant keep them on the site for very long ( good thing). Keep in contact .
Sorry for taking so long to respond....I've been jumping in the shop with a sudden flush of orders for these small "alto" steel string guitars my apprentice and I have been making.
So....how are you thinking of having this top restoration done? Are you just going to yank out the "2x4" (and if so.....how?) and let the original bracing suffice? Are you thinking of completely re-bracing the top w/ new braces? If so...how were you imagining doing / having this done? take off the top? take off the back? new top (don't do that!)? When you say "re-done bracing", I'm guessing that you'll pull that 2x4 somehow (hope it was glued in w/ a heat / water soluble glue) and let the old bracing stay and use light tension strings. Sometimes wood has a memory (often really) and if the top was "potato chipped" for a while....I wonder if when the support is gone if it will go back to it's dipped position. On some nylon string guitar that were known for being underbraced and dipping down in front of the bridge....my teacher (and by that I mean....often I would do the work) would install what he called a "flying brace". There would be two "pillars" glued on to the sides in line with where the dip was. They wouldn't go the entire length of the side. They would butt up against the back linings and stop about 1/2" or so from the top linings. A wing like brace would be made of Spruce or Fir, about 3/8" square, that spanned these pillars, with a little "button" of wood that, when the wings were wedged into these pillars, would press up on the center brace and force it up a bit and add extra upward support. I'm not sure if something similar could be done to exert enough force on a steel string (maybe pushing up at the intersection of the X brace....tho I realize this guitar may be ladder braced). It's just an idea....and one that's not easily or clearly explained here. If the original braces are in good shape and the 2x4 support is taken out cleanly (without taking out too much top wood) and the strings tensioned appropriately.....maybe it will work just fine. If the guitar finds that it's missing the extra support.....maybe something similar but lighter would be a good compromise. Maybe 2 or 3 pieces of veneer (Maple, Mahogany), w/ the grain alternating, would give it enough support but be less massive than what you describe.
I'm sorry to ramble...the only way I can do this is to think / write out loud. If you want to actually TALK about it....send me an email at email@example.com and I'll send you my phone number.
BTW.....that's a sweet looking guitar you have!! I love Mahogany topped guitars. I just got an order for a small guitar w/ mahogany top, back, and sides. I can do all sorts of things w/ these small guitars that I could never get away with in my "regular" work of building nylon string guitars. Here's a pic of a small Mahogany steel string I just sold.